Week 21: Desert Reign

Previously on...

Week 20: I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For

Giant sequoias, Giant scorpions, Salton Sea, Bombay Beach, Joshua trees, Tucson, AZ, Aaron Space Museum

Sunday, September 21. Day 140

Eye Sea Bee Em 

Tucson, AZ

Last night I went to a Star Party at Oracle State Park. They have a separate section of the park for late night star viewing, but it requires a reservation. I smiled and said please, and they hooked me up. 

It wasn’t very photogenic but it was a quiet place to park for the night. 

I woke up at 3am and couldn’t fall back asleep, so I got up and walked around outside. Looking at the stars and soaking in the solitude. 

In the morning I met up with my cousin again for brunch and met her husband. They’re a great pair and we all got along great. Chatted about politics, the Southwest and Pink Floyd.

Brunch was delicious, service was “leisurely”, which didn’t bother me but was a point of contention for my cousin. I could hear my dad in her dissatisfaction. 

After brunch I went to the Titan II missile museum, a recommendation from a friend back home. It’s a decommissioned underground silo with a real (disabled) ICBM titan missile. 

I was conflicted because it was definitely cool, but I hate how much $$ is spent on the military industrial complex, and the fetishization of the military. 

Afterwards I got an oil change, on time for a change. Was friendly and chatted with the techs a bunch. Without my asking, they gave me a $25 off coupon. 

Finished out the day visiting the other half of Saguaro NP and driving the loop. 

It rained heavily at the end of the loop. I found a secluded spot to park and took a ‘shower’ in the cold rain. (in a swimsuit, I'm not a heathen.)

Daily Listen: ‘Take 5’ by Dave Brubeck came on while at the oil change place called ‘Take 5.’ 

Good: Had a wonderful brunch with my cousin and got to meet her husband. Both of them are big, fun personalities! Brunch was excellent; Tex-mex scrabbled eggs and a Carnitas tamale. Plus a whole bunch of fresh fruit!

Bad: In the four days I spent in Tucson, it rained three of them! Not bad in itself, and the rain helped to keep the temperatures down. But I missed out on the amazing Tucson sunsets I was told about.

Unexpected: On the loop drive through Saguaro National Park I stopped randomly to take some pictures and walked a bit down a trail. By pure happenstance, I walked down the Shantz trail!

Monday, September 22. Day 141

Autumnal Equinox 

Phoenix 

Last night I was debating if I wanted to park for the night or drive the short trip up to Phoenix. I decided to do the drive in the morning, then I’ll be able to enjoy the scenery on the drive.

Taking the non-highway route was very pretty, in a classic desert sort of way.

On the way out of town I was passing by a spot where I’d seen a yard full of old cars yesternight, and wondering if I wanted to go the 40 minutes out of the way to photograph them. 

Since my agenda for the day is ‘take my time and take lots of pictures’, a side quest seemed in order. 

At the yard as I was taking photos the owner came out. I said hi and checked that it was ok I was there. He gave an enthusiastic yes, and invited me into his garage to see the car he’s most proud of. We chatted and exchanged socials, it was a worthwhile detour! 

Another detour a little further down was Casa Grande National Monument. It’s a 1000 year old multi story dwelling built by hand from native soil that they turned into a kind of proto-concrete.

Then on to Phoenix. I’d ordered a few things from amazon, delivered to a Whole Foods in Phoenix. Ended up staying for a while to use their internet and stay out of the heat. 

Daily listen: ‘Million Clouds’, song by Blue Pilots Project

Good: Making new friends everywhere I go. Derek at Chase Chop Shop, I’m definitely going to swing by again the next time I’m in Tucson. He’ll let me hang out and shoot the cars at night with the stars. 

Bad: My hips are starting to feel really tight! Probably all the sitting I’ve been doing. Time for some stretching! 

Unexpected: Spent the majority of the afternoon and evening at Whole Foods processing pics from Week 17! I took so many pictures at Crater Lake NP. This was always going to take a big chunk of time, and I have nowhere to be today. It feels lame to sit in WF all day, but it’s air conditioned, the wifi is good, and Monday night football is on their big tv (West coast, so the game was on at 5p). Not a terrible place to kill an evening. I’m already well behind on photo editing, if I did this piecemeal it would become frustrating and overwhelming. Better to get it done in one big chunk. 

Tuesday, September 23. Day, 142

A monument to man’s arrogance

Phoenix, AZ

For the first time on this trip I ate at Cracker Barrel! The breakfast was fine, the server was a delight. One of those ‘is she flirting with me or just a very friendly server?’ I think it was somewhere in the middle. 

There’s a line from the show King of the Hill where the family goes to Phoenix and Bobby says “It’s like standing on the sun! This city shouldn’t exist, it’s a monument to a man’s arrogance!”

It’s 100° at noon and I feel you, Bobby! 

I did a load of laundry. Laundry always feels like a Sisyphean task, no matter how much I do, I always have to do it again a few days later.

Otherwise I didn’t do much with the day. Went to an area called Roosevelt that’s known for its art scene, but there’s not a lot going on at noon on Tuesday in 100º heat. I walked around and poked my head into a few vintage shops. Spent the rest of the afternoon at Barns & Noble. Wifi & AC. (note from the future, I'm currently at a B&N in Grand Junction, CO posting this blog!)

I know there are a lot of amazing things to do in Phoenix, but it’s hot. And I’ve been going kinda non-stop for a while, I need a couple days to chill. Full-time adventuring is exhausting!

I know, you all feel my pain and offer your deepest sympathies, which I appreciate.

In the evening I met up with a friend for dinner - really the only reason I stopped in Phoenix at all.

I met Katie on the same hike as Kyle, they were traveling together.

(I visited Kyle and his wife in Yosemite way back in Week 18!) 

Daily Listen: The Decemberists album; ‘As It Ever Was, So It will Be Again’

There are a few songs from this album in my regular rotation, I was overdue to give the whole thing a listen.

Good album, with a few very good songs. Particularly like ‘Oh No!’ and ‘All I Want is You’.

Good: Dinner with Katie! We had burgers and margs, and just chatted. I’m fortunate to have people like her to visit. 

Bad: The ‘tight hips’ I’ve had for a couple days turns out to be a rheumatoid arthritis flare up. Doesn’t happen often, thankfully. But this one seems overly persistent.

Unexpected: Saw a camera store while driving through town and did a quick turn into the lot to check it out! Chatted with the person there and got a bunch of great tips for places to see. One of them being Jarome Ghost Town. And I bought a couple rolls of film. Portra was $15! (Normally $22 online.) 

Wednesday, September 24. Day 143

Liminal Spaces

Driving to Sedona, AZ

Driving the long way, which was double the drive time but infinitely more scenic. Started off straight and flat through the desert, but then climbed switchbacks through scenic mountains that made the detour worthwhile. 

Remembered the advice at Yosemite to turn off the AC during long climbs to give the engine a break. In 95° heat - that was definitely a choice. 

Climbing a circuitous route up the mountain switchbacks, at around 6000 feet the temperature dropped to a more comfortable 84°, and for the first time in what felt like forever I rolled down the windows.

After more than an hour of lovely switchbacks I ended up in the town of Prescott. It was time to ‘fill the van and empty the people’ as my dad would say. I got caught up in errands; grocery shopping, lunch, put away yesterday’s laundry - and decided I felt like just calling it a day and staying here for the night. I found a Panera to park my butt at and process more photos. I am way behind and this is going to be a marathon.

I’m in no hurry, I still have 4 days to drive the 4 hours to Sedona.

In the evening after the sun set, it becomes downright pleasant up here! The air is cool and dry, and I don’t have to run the cabin AC. I might even get to sleep under the sheets tonight.

After sundown I went up to a mall on a hill, in the parking lot I took pictures of the sliver moon. 

Also, I finally went to an In-And-Out Burger even though I’ve been seeing them for 4 months. I didn’t realize how inexpensive the food is! I might have to go there a little more (but only a little, it’s still greasy fast food.) 

Good: Beautiful scenery and lower temps! 

Bad: Feels weird to park for the day without getting to my planned destination. But I make my own itinerary and I can change it if I want! 

Unexpected: I’ve been wanting to see the famed Arizona sunset since I got here and have been thwarted every time! I finally got to see it from the parking lot of a Panera Bread. 

Thursday, September 25. Day 144

A miner detour

Jerome, AZ

It was a good decision to chill in Prescott and come to Jerome in the morning. The drive here was beautiful, and the town is charmingly quaint. It’s an old copper mining town that looks out over a stunning valley and a painted rock cliffside. They’re leaning into the ghost town vibe, but its a little too clean and well-kept to be spooky. There are a lot of great shops and galleries, a lot to walk around and see. Even on a Thursday late in the season the town is hopping. 

There’s an old high school from the 20’s that’s converted to an artists’ space.

I roamed around a bit but most of them weren’t open. 

In the public square I spotted a sign for the annual town cookout this evening at the firehouse. Figure I’d stick around and check it out. Before it started I did ask if it was ok that I attend, and they were more than happy for a visitor to drop in! I put some $ in the boot for their charity.

Across from the firehouse I found a bench overlooking the valley and sat watching the sunset.

I am grateful for my life. 

Good: For most of an hour I sat watching the sun set over the valley, giant fluffy clouds slowly changing color from purple to red to crimson, until the last wisp of pink faded from the sky. I finally got the spectacular Arizona sunset I’d been promised!

Bad: My joint pain flare up persists. Walking around town simultaneously helps and hurts. 

Unexpected: The firehouse cookout was a joy! Excellent food and the 15 banjo band was the most amazing small town thing. 

Friday, September 26. Day 145

Wow

Sedona, AZ 

I don’t want to always go on about where I park for a night, but I was particularly happy having parked in a quiet remote lot in Jerome and wasn’t bothered all night. 

In the morning I drove the Scenic Highway A179 towards Sedona. It's only an hour away, so I had lots of time to sightsee.

First stop was Montezuma Castle National Monument, which was an impromptu visit. There’s a cool dwelling build into the side of a cliff! 

Further along A179 the views changed, and - wow. The red rock formations are spectacular.

I stopped in the National Forest visitor center and got a bunch of tips for places to hike and dispersed camping for the night. I was all fired up to go hiking, but it started pouring rain. It let up long enough for me to drive over to a photo spot, but then started up again. I called it quits and headed out to find a spot to camp for the night. 

The first dispersed campsite I stopped at seemed good, but I started hearing ‘pop pop pop!’ and realized I was across the street from a gun range. As I was considering if I wanted to stay or go I heard a ricochet buzz by - and I quickly left. 

The second spot was more remote, and a few other RVs were parked there, always a good sign.

Good: Sedona’s red rock mountains are spectacular. I’m so glad that I can drive around the whole country and still find places that take my breath away. 

Bad: I’ve been in Arizona for 11 days, and it’s rained 10 of them! 

Unexpected: It was raining and overcast all day. I hiked to a sunset spot only to get rained on. Packing it in I headed to my campsite for the night. Once there, the sky cleared up a little and there was a brilliant double rainbow followed by a spectacular sunset. 

Saturday, September 27. Day 146. 

Sing Me a Song

Jerome, AZ.

Again. 

On the way back to Jerome in the morning there was another rainbow, over a beautiful valley. I got a pic through the windshield but by the time I could pull over for a proper photo the rainbow was gone. 

I’m going back to Jerome for their annual music festival. IDK what to expect, but hoping it’ll be a good way to spend a Saturday. There are several stages, a couple outside and a few inside different bars. 

At an early set of an excellent cover band, they ask the audience “who likes the Eagles?!”

I say back “Go Birds!” 

Then the lead singer does “E-A-G-L-E-S!”

I giggled fiercely. 

Speaking of Philly, there was an ‘Arizona Cheesesteak’ at a BBQ place that had me curious. But I got the pulled pork instead. I’m not ready for a ‘foreign’ cheesesteak yet. 

Walked around all day with the Canon 35mm film camera. Sadly don’t have the film developed yet to share. 

It rained heavily on and off all day. Of course. 

For a reprieve from the rain I checked out a band inside at The Spirit Room and they were amazing, the highlight of the day. ‘The Invincible Grins.’

When the rain let up I split my time between listening to different sets and walking all over town checking out the shops again. 

In the evening I stopped to watch a band warming up. They’re a heavy metal Band. Three of the members are in their early 20s, but the drummer is easily in his mid-70s, and he is absolutely killing it on the drums! It’s a spectacle to see and hear, I am amazed. 

Sadly, he was only drumming for the sound check, and the regular drummer replaced him for the actual set. Which wasn’t worth sticking around for.

At another set later in the evening I’m standing by myself inside a crowded bar. Chairs are at a premium. A woman standing nearby with her friend leans over to me, gestures to an open chair next to another woman at a hightop, grins and says to me; “I’m sure she wouldn’t mind a handsome man sitting with her.”

I stayed where I was, but it’s always nice to get an unexpected compliment.

I don't get flirted with often, and guys in general are starved for compliments. Be a kind soul and compliment a dude today.

Later at night there was a fierce thunderstorm with lots of lightning and driving rain. It lasted 10 minutes but soaked everything.  

Daily Listen: The Jerome Music Fest all day. But specifically I liked The Invincible Grins ! 

They’re a kind of rockabilly-ska-funk rock. Very upbeat and fun!

Give them a listen on Spotify or Apple Music 

https://open.spotify.com/artist/2Y339CyqaVdTOOhAApyORC

https://music.apple.com/us/artist/the-invincible-grins/890202622

Good: Coming back to Jerome for their music fest was the best decision I’ve made all week! 

Bad: At the dispersed campsite I woke up to the sound of rain on the roof just after sunrise. I realized I should move the van before the ground got muddy/slippery and I (might) get stuck!

Unexpected: So much and such a variety of music. I never tire of live music the same way I never tire of the sunset. 

12 days in Arizona, 11 with rain. 

Next Week on Aaron's Vanlife Adventure...

I meet up with my vanlife friend Tracie and we explore Sedona and the vortices there, before heading to Albuquerque for the world's largest hot air balloon festival!