Week 6, June 8 - 14
Liminal Spaces
The spaces in between.
Some days are adventures, and some days are just days.
And even those can be adventures.
Sunday, June 8. Day 35
C'est magnifique
Walsenburg, CO -> Great Sand Dunes National Park
Every day is a new day, independent, agnostic of whatever came before.
Great Sand Dunes National Park was not on my original itinerary. It wasn't even on my updated itinerary. On the way to Walsenburg I saw a sign on the highway "74 miles to GSDNP" and hadn't realized I was so close. With an unexpected free day and no other plans, it seemed like a perfect opportunity to hit up another National Park.
I'd been there once, 5 years ago. On the way back from my road trip to Moab, UT. The visit was good and I remember wanting to come back and see it again. So off I went!
Along the way I stopped to make coffee and cook breakfast. The park was only 90 minutes away and I was in no hurry.
I sat on the step of my van and looked out over a beautiful mountain range while I ate and sipped my coffee.
On the way into the park, I was stopping so often to take pictures that I thought I might never make it into the park - like an asymptote approaching the Y axis. (I checked with a math teacher friend and she approved that comment)
At the dunes my ambitious idea was to hike up to the top and hang out to wait for sunset. There was no way that was going to happen. I was exhausted at the top and didn’t have it in me to hang out. Plus, the wind was violently whipping at the top, the blowing sand stung and was getting in my eyes and mouth.
Instead I was able to watch the sunset from my campground nearby. Good thing, it ended up pouring rain over the park.
I drove to a dispersed campsite a few miles up the road. I turned into Zapata Falls Recreation Area and start driving up the hill, looking for the campground. The road kept going up and up for what seems like an eternity. I thought I was going to run out of mountain before I found the campsite! Eventually found the spot, at 9000 feet elevation! I had amazing views of the sand dunes, the mountains, and a spectacular fiery sunset.
The signs around the campground were giving mixed signals as to whether I could Boondock here. So I found an out-of-the-way spot to park and turned off all the lights inside. Every time a car drove by I was paranoid it would be a ranger here to tell me to leave.
Good: Made a friend hiking up the dunes! A young woman from France, visiting the US for 3 months! We encouraged and helped each other get to the top!
Bad: Serious blisters!
Unexpected: IDK if it’s possible to be prepared for how beautiful the landscape is here. I took so many pictures that look like paintings, or look like they’re heavily manipulated. But this is really what it looked like. Or maybe even prettier in real life.
This was a very photogenic day!
I'll make up for it later in the week by not taking many photos on Wednesday.
Monday, June 9. Day 36
Jeez Colorado, save some amazing for everyone else
Great sand dunes national park -> Colorado Springs
Although I wasn’t chased off last night, I did wake up to find a park custodian walking around my van, taking pictures and looking aggrieved.
I had been considering hiking the trail up to the waterfall, but felt I should probably make myself scarce. He followed me out in his golf cart. I didn't see it, but I imagine him shaking his fist at me as I drove away.
Feeling pretty good with my decisions so far to stay off the highways, I again took the scenic route - literally.
Along the way I passed the Royal Gorge Bridge, which had been on my 'to-see' list, but I'd lost track of it. So it was a nice surprise to come across it on the non-highway route.
I think I was here 11 years ago, pretty close to this exact date! But I don’t remember the bridge being such a tourist trap.
I did a short trail hike to a scenic overlook and got my requisite photos.
* I looked up my old photos and found I was here June 23, 2014. This was a rest day on my cross-country bicycle trip. Below I have a photo of the bridge & gorge I took then, and a very similar one I took on Monday. Plus an old photo of me from that visit. I have a few years on me, but I still have that same camera satchel!
I finished out the rest of the scenic drive to Colorado Springs without much fanfare. I’ve felt a little blah all day. It’s a combination of things: feeling unwelcome in the morning, a poor night's sleep, feeling unmoored since my plans changed unexpectedly, and probably a not insignificant amount of coming down from a fun and intense several days. There's often a crash after a sustained high.
I splurged and got a hotel in Colorado Springs for 2 nights. I’m hoping this will help me catch up on sleep, showers, laundry, blogging, and processing photos. I might even go see a movie tomorrow.
Daily Listen: Thievery Corporation, album ‘The Cosmic Game’
Good: The non-highway scenic drive through Colorado was endlessly beautiful. All rolling hills and winding roads through mountains and valleys. The drive wasn’t two hours longer, it was two hours better.
Bad: When I was at Royal Gorge 11 years ago I remember eating at a barbecue place and distinctly remember getting an enormous baked potato fully loaded plus pulled pork! I wanted to go back, but they’re weren’t open on Mondays.
Unexpected: Stopping at the Royal Gorge was going to be my unexpected for the day, but it was upstaged when I saw the $40 fee just to set foot on the bridge!
It’s billed as “America’s Bridge”, the most American thing about it was charging an entry fee for to visit a landmark.
Two photos at the end below are from my visit 11 years ago.
Tuesday, June 10. Day 37
Where are the apples?
Colorado Springs
Had a disappointing hotel breakfast, but I think that was in the description.
The main attraction in Colorado Springs is The Garden of the Gods, and that was my first destination. The name is certainly apt.
The park is surprisingly well laid out, the visitors’ center is nice and welcoming, and the park is easy to get around and see.
I picked my first trail at random based on the first place I could find parking for the van. It was a short but pretty hike in a less congested area. On the trail I encountered a young family a few times. They caught my attention because I noticed the mother was more interested in her selfies than pictures of or even interacting with her young daughters. I try not to judge people I come across, but this made me sad.
I spent a good chunk of the day walking around the park, climbing on rock formations (where it was allowed) and taking pictures. I spent more time than expected in the park, but it was time well spent.
In contrast to the touristy Royal Gorge Bridge and the 'no trespassing' land in Stonewall last week, it was refreshing to find that the Garden of the Gods park is completely free. The land was gifted to the city on the promise that it would remain free and accessible, and it absolutely was.
Daily Listen: An older guy sitting in his convertible, looking out over the valley, and listening to Freebird. Livin’ the dream.
Daily Watch: saw The Phoenician Scheme at the movies. IDK what to make of it. It’s maybe the most Wes Anderson movie ever. His movies are hit and miss for me. Some I really like - Moonrise Kingdom is one - and others are too esoteric for me. This one falls into the latter category.
Good: It was a perfectly nice day. I got out in nature, took some photos, updated my blog and saw a movie. What more could I want?
Bad: I’m still trying to figure out my itinerary for the month. I don’t have anywhere specific to be until June 30th. I’m unsettled not having more of a plan for the next 2 weeks.
Unexpected: Spending most of the day at Garden of the Gods. I thought I’d be there for a couple hours at most - it’s not a big park. But it drew me in and I enjoyed taking the extra time to slow down and explore.
Wednesday, June 11. Day 38
Hey, is your refrigerator running?
Colorado Springs
One more day in the Springs.
I tried to take a tour of Glen Eyrie Castle, next to Garden of the Gods, but I was late out the door and tours were sold out for the day.
Otherwise the day was fairly low key. I journaled a bit, watched the final 2 episodes of Andor, and sent a bunch of postcards. Like a whole lot! I hadn’t accounted for just how time consuming that would be! I’m still only about 30% through my list, so if you’re expecting one and haven’t gotten it, I promise I haven’t forgotten you.
If you want to be on the postcard list, all you have to do is ask!
Every postcard is an original and unique photo from this trip - I only send one copy of each picture.
If we're connected on socials, you can message me through there (IG: AthleticN3RD, in case you're not already following), or you can message me via the 'Contact' link at the top of this page.
Daily Listen: Pink Floyd’s ‘A Momentary Lapse of Reason’
This was my introduction to PF in High School and I listened to this album a lot. Largely because it was one of only a handful of cassette tape ‘albums’ I owned!
I haven’t really listened to it in a while, preferring their classic stuff like Wish You Were Here, Meddle, Animals, etc.
It kinda hasn’t held up that well for me. It’s a bit pretentious and tries a too hard to be ‘deep’. I think the best way to describe it is someone sober trying to reproduce what it’s like to be psychedelic. It's noticeably missing Roger Waters darkness and Syd Barrett's psychedelia. It's like all the things that made Pink Floyd Pink Floyd were slowly stripped away until all that was left was David Gilmour.
Good: The day was fairly productive, at least. Postcards, finished Andor, got good sleep.
Bad: The refrigerator in the van stopped working. Just fucking up and died. I woke up to a puddle of water on the floor and a tepid refrigerator. It would start back up sporadically through the day, but cut back out overnight. Looks like I have another appointment at the RV shop. [insert expletive filled screaming here]
Unexpected: For dinner at a nearby restaurant I got a ‘meal deal’ - salad, entree, and dessert for a real bargain price. The unexpected part was dessert, it was a whole brownie sundae! It was supposed to be a ‘bargain’ portion without ice cream. But I won’t ever complain about a brownie sundae!
Thursday, June 12. Day 39
Things to do in Denver when you’re in a van
Colorado Springs -> Denver
It was a gray and overcast day. Even the ‘back roads’ were still mostly highways and the drive was just a drive.
On the way to Denver I passed through Littleton, Colorado.
I was reminded of a woman I dated in college that was from there. Her name was Ananda, she told me it meant ‘Joy.’
For a long time I carried a lot of resentment around that brief but formative relationship.
Until one day as I was thinking about it, (there’s a chain restaurant near me that I associated with her) I realized it didn’t matter, I could choose to let it go. Not forgiveness, it was so long ago that there was nothing to forgive. Rather, just… putting it down and choosing not to carry it anymore.
This isn’t some grand revelation, anyone in therapy has heard this, but it was a revelation to me at the time.
Since doing that, I hadn’t thought of her at all in years. Until I saw the sign on the highway for Littleton, CO.
Ananda, I hope you’re doing well and life has been kind to you.
I rolled into Denver in the early evening and went straight to Red Rocks Amphitheater Park, which I was happy to find is much more than just a music venue.
There was a show there that evening, an artist named Stick Figure, that I’d never heard of but clearly had a dedicated following. I was tempted to buy a ticket and see what it was about, but with all my van issues lately I have to be more mindful of impulse spending.
Daily Listen: Stick Figure, album ‘World on Fire’.
I probably hadn’t heard of him because it’s reggae and that’s not typically my vibe. But I enjoyed the album enough as easy driving music that I’ll probably check out a couple more albums.
*Back at my van I misremembered his name and searched 'Stickman' instead. Much, much different, and kinda terrible.
Good: It had been gray, rainy and overcast all day driving from Colorado Springs to Denver. But 10 minutes into my hike at Red Rocks the gray cleared up and it was a genuinely beautiful afternoon and a great hike. I’m glad I took my time getting there.
Bad: I’ve felt unsettled all week, directionless. What am I doing in Denver? There’s nothing particular I want to see here. But my next ‘destination’ isn’t until June 25 in RMNP’ and I have almost 2 weeks to kill until then.
Unexpected: The tailgating parties for Stick Figure. I had never heard of him, but he’s got a pretty cool fan base. Reminds me a lot of Phish fans. Lots of tie-dye and joints passed around. There are a good number of camper vans of people who have clearly traveled for the show. Real hippie vibe. I was going to say the crowd skewed a little older, then I realized they’re all my age.
Friday the thirteenth. Day 40
I contain multitudes
Denver
Visited Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Preserve. They have a herd of 300 buffalo (bison) and a nice driving loop around the park. On the loop I saw the herd, but way off in the distance.
Discovered that even in Colorado, Florida drivers are annoying. On the nature loop there was an SUV with Florida plates that kept stopping in the middle of the road, oblivious to anyone else.
Cooked a lunch of scrambled eggs, to use them up before they go back (see yesterday’s bad: fridge on the fritz)
Parked for an hour at the mall next to a dead JC Penny and ran my generator so I could take a nap with the AC on.
Afterwards went to the movies (again), and got tacos.
Daily listen watch: Life of Chuck
10/10, would cry in the theater again.
In the movie Sinners, the Juke scene was worth the price of admission.
In Life of Chuck it was the dance scene.
Good: Colorado sunsets. Daaammmnnn
Bad: On my cross country bike trip I came to the realization that a “bad day“ consisted of at least three bad things. One bad thing, shrug, whatever. Two bad things in a day is annoying, but I can persevere. Three bad things and that enough I’m allowed to be unhappy.
These last few days, I think I’ve hit my three “bad” things; feeling unmoored and directionless since my plans have changed, more frustration with things breaking in the van, and I realized this morning I’ve spent too many days among urban sprawl and need to get back to nature.
I’m in Colorado for f-sake, if I can’t find something beautiful in nature to do, I should just give up on van life now and go home!
Unexpected: Prairie Dogs everywhere! On the drive TO the nature preserve I saw them popping up anywhere there was a patch of grass.
ps, I tried on a Cowboy hat at a Bass Pro Shops that was bigger than my high school. IDK if I can pull off the cowboy hat look.
Saturday, June 14. Day 41
tatanka! tatanka!
Denver
Woke up before dawn to drive the Nature Preserve loop again at sunrise. It was a bit hazy, but beautiful. There were a few bison laying near the road and I got a couple good photos. Also re-took the ‘long road to the mountains’ photo from yesterday with different light (actually the main reason for the sunrise drive). TBD if it was worth the early rise.
Afterwards I found a spot to park to take a nap and then cook breakfast.
Sunrise was at 5:30a, so I drove the loop, and took a 2 hr nap, and was still up before 8a.
Had a weird dream that I broke my camera, ‘woke up’ and broke it again (then actually woke up.. I’m pretty sure.)
When I imagined the amazing things I’d do on this trip, I’d dream about sitting outside, overlooking some beautiful natural vista while eating a homemade breakfast.
I did not imagine sitting in an empty business park parking lot overlooking a post office distribution center.
But hey, they can’t all be winners.
Temps today got up into the 90s, so I found a Panera to park at for the afternoon and do some connected work - process photos, update this very blog post (so meta!) and search for campsites for the coming weeks.
In the last 24hrs I’ve settled some of my upcoming plans and feel better. Also giving myself grace and space to have down time without expectations or the need to constantly be moving forward. Also, a nap helps.
Good: Got dinner downtown with someone I met at Apogaea last week. It’s always fun connecting with new friends!
Bad: I thought coming to Denver would get me out of the heat, but it was 91º today, and I felt every degree of it in my black van.
Unexpected: Half salad + half sandwich plus a drink was $23! WTF Panera? I consider the several hours in air-conditioning using your wifi aptly paid for.
